For a long time, I read - with quasi-religious fervour - Giles Coren's restaurant reviews. Every weekend (Saturday), in the Times magazine. For a taste (see what I did there?) of his scathing best, read Coren's review of Goodfellas in Belfast. Mole poached in Ovaltine.
Hell, when I used to buy a paper, Coren was the sole reason for my choosing the Times, rather than the Guardian or Independent.
Giles Coren is a funny man. In the years since first I read his reviews, his profile has - I observe - grown considerably. He's been Edwardian Supersized, has presented (in slightly cringe-inducing fashion) various TV shows, and has written officially bad sex scenes.
Anyhow. He is now attracting attention on the Guardian website, thanks to a 'leaked' email sent by him to Times subeditors. "Furious and foul-mouthed", we are told.
Now, it seems to me, this is one of those convenient 'leaks' that has done Mr Coren very little harm. Indeed, he comes out of it rather well. Okay, so readers of the 1,000-odd word email may (if they fail to sympathise with the man's tirade) consider its author a sarcastic, pedantic little arse. But that'll do his 'personal brand' absolutely no damage - as it's the image he's deliberately (if occasionally coyly) courted for years.
If it was indeed a genuine leak, lucky man.
If not: well played, sir.
Now, go and read Giles Coren's angry email for yourself. If you're pressed for time, though, I urge you at least to scan the more brief scribal smack dealt to fellow reviewer Feargus O'Sullivan. Rhetorically, the build is fabulous.